Study of optimal cam design of dual-axle spring-loaded camming device

Abstract

The spring-loaded camming device (SLCD), also known as "friend", is a simple mechanism used to ensure the safety of the climber through fall prevention. SLCD consists of two pairs of opposing cams rotating separately, with one (single-axle SLCD) or two (dual-axle SLCD) pins connecting the opposing cams, a stem, connected to the pins, providing the attachment of the climbing rope, springs, which simultaneously push cams to a fully expanded position, and an operating element controlling the cam position. The expansion of cams is thus adaptable to allow insertion or removal of the device into/from a rock crack. While the pins, stem, operating element, and springs can be considered optimal, the (especially internal) shape of the cam allows space for improvement, especially where the weight is concerned. This paper focuses on optimizing the internal shape of the dual-axle SLCD cam from the perspective of the weight/stiffness trade-off. For this purpose, two computational models are designed and multi-step topology optimization (TOP) are performed. From the computational models' point of view, SLCD is considered symmetric and only one cam is optimized and smoothened using parametric curves. Finally, the load-bearing capacity of the new cam design is analyzed. This work is based on practical industry requirements, and the obtained results will be reflected in a new commercial design of SLCD.